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Here's where you can get ideas to modify/maintain that Splatmaster.


I'm going to list all of the things I can think of to make your Splatmaster perform the best it can. Granted, if you want REAL performance, you'll need to spend money. Keep your eyes open on ebay; that's probably THE best resource for Splatmasters, and both OEM and aftermarket parts. Feel free to browse, and do all modifications at your own risk. If you have any questions, or you would like to submit a modification/how-to, please e-mail me.
  DIY Direct Feed

Check out the picture/instructions.

This is a mod that is easily done at home. I bought mine from I&I Sports a few years ago. Their site said nothing about having to drill or cut a hole into the upper tube of the gun. As I have stated in previous posts, I have no desire/intention to chop up my Splatty. What you do with yours is your business. ;)

What you need:

One 10-round tube (cap not necessary)

One 3/4" PVC "T" Fitting

One 3/4" PVC "Elbow" fitting (45 degree, not 90)

One WGP Ammo Box

I'm just gonna simplify the I&I Sports Instructions page. I'll make a scan and post that page too.

Compare the "T" fitting to the upper tube. You'll have to cut the fitting so that you can slide it onto the upper tube snugly. Once you've cut the fitting, slide the fitting down the tube until the hole of the fitting is directed just above the "view hole" in the side of the gun. (Can I say gun? Hmmm...)

This is the hard part. Use a pencil and trace around the inside of the hole like a stencil. Using a knife/dremel tool/coping saw/whatever you can think of, cut the hole. Add the elbow, add the Ammo Box, and slide the 10-round tube into the upper tube backwards. I suugest a good coat of paint on the PVC as well.

I know, it's a very condensed version. If you have questions, post them and I'll answer them.

Here's the I&I sports instruction page:

Here's an additional tip:

If you decide to do this mod, and use the WGP Ammo box, you can buy a scope cover with a snapping cap and put it on the top of the Ammo Box. Then you have another "old do with new tricks" mod. ;)
  DIY Constant Air

Check out the picture/instructions.

For those of you that won't have the luck of finding a CA adapter, you can make your own. You can buy one of these dummy 12 grams off ebay.

Then, use the supplied 1/8" NPT plug to plug the side port on the dummy. Then, drill a hole all the way through your current co2 plug. If you go straight down it's center, it will maintiain its strength, and still be 12 gram compatable. Then, attach a male to female fitting long enough to protrude from the co2 plug. Then, I suggest you add a quick disconnect nipple, and run a coiled remote to a tank.
  Like What You See? Have any Questions?

Feel free to "drop me a line" and I'll try to get back to you A.S.A.P.

-Charlie White

Polishing your barrel:

This is very easy, but most people don't realize it. Polishing the inside of your factory plastic barrel will improve velocity and accuracy.

What you'll need:

-Turtle Wax Polishing Compound (the Green tub, not the Red one)

-A barrel cleaning woven swab (as found in gun cleaning kits)

-Barrel rod for the swab

-Soapy Water/ A towel

-A non-greasy plastic shining agent (Armor-all, etc.)

As I stated before, this one is easy. Remove the barrel from the gun. Attach the barrel swab to its rod. Smear some polishing compound evenly onto the swab and put the swab into the barrel. Ram the swab up and down the barrel- sounds so dirty ;). After a minute or so, the swab will be "gunked up" so to speak, and that's what the soapy water is for. Clean off the gunk on the swab and fluff it up. Then use the towl to dry it. Then, repeat all steps again, at least once more. You'll notice when the barrel is getting shiny inside.

Finally, when you're satisfied, clean the swab one more time, dry it, spray on some Armor-all (only a little) and use it to clean out the remaining residue left from the compund and give the barrel a final smooth, shiny surface.

Total Time:

15 Minutes

Scale of 1-10: 10

This was perhaps my favorite mod until I purchased my BOA barrel.

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Velocity adjustment:

This one is a little more complicated. For most of you, machining a new hammer/plunger with a velocity adjustment screw is outta the question.

The next easiest way is a trial and error mothod. First of all, your Splatty is probably 15+ years old. Your main spring is probably toast. Even if it's not too bad, it's not a bad idea to take it to a hardware store and get a new replacement. Springs are cheap and they can give you one with the same diameter and length.

When buying the spring:

Consider buying a few. Buy one 1/4" longer. Buy another spring entirely that has a smaller diameter but with the same length, and go the double-spring trick. It's worth a try.

Now that you've upgraded/replaced the spring, get some washers/shims to put between the spring and the hammer. It increases the tension, and in turn, increases the velocity.

Try combinations of springs and washers. I shoot approx. 290 fps for around 35 solid shots on a 12 gram cartridge.

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Screws!

The Splatmasters came with steel, phillips-head screws. This raises two problems, now 15+ years later: stripping and rusting. Take the screws to your local hardware store and ask them for stainless socket-head cap screws. Replacing the 10-24 machine screws holding in the valve and hammer/plunger isn't a bad idea either.

Now you can dis-assemble on the field twice as fast, using allen wrenches rather than screwdrivers.

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Sight rail:

The Splatmaster is just a pistol, and most Splatmasters' ranges aren't great enough to justify a scope or a red-dot sight. However, it looks so tough, right? I'm sure that I'm not the first guy to want a sight rail.

I made the observation that a shark-gill sight rail made for a Rebel BTB will slide onto the upper rail of the Splatty after filing a small amount off of its inside edges. It will slide SNUGLY onto the Splatty, and I've had mine on for a few months without a problem.

Experiment with other Spyder clones. Upper tubes on several of these models are identical diameter and are interchangable.

Mount up that sight and intimidate those 12 year olds! I've always liked the look of a scope on a pistol. It takes me back to the 80's and gives me a "Terminator" vibe. Maybe I'm just stuck in the past.

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Autococker trigger shoe:

After playing with a Splatmaster for a whole day on the field, that tiny trigger can hurt your index finger. I have always liked a hard trigger pull, but most people that have borrowed my Splatty have complained (electronic trigger frame babies). I bought an old 'Cocker frame for my Rainmaker last year, and the trigger had a trigger shoe. I noticed that the width of the 'Cocker shoe was very comparable to the Splatty.

The shoe feels great, and it looks good. Plus, along with the sight rail, this is a fairly common and cheap piece which is available for many models, and is available in different colors. Not a bad aftermarket for such a classic.

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O-ring on bolt

Here's another one I've tried! I often brag about how I get much more range/velocity with the same mods as other Splatmaster owners. A fellow Splatmaster owner suggested this to me a few years back. When the barrel is pulled into the bolt, the valve opens and releases Co2. Some of that Co2 in turn leaks out of the barrel, losing efficiency.

Solution: Put the bolt on the lathe and cut an o-ring groove. Then add an o-ring. Make sure that the outer diameter of the o-ring when installed is barely larger than the outer diameter of the bolt itself. Also make sure that it does close the gap between the bolt and barrel. Keep it well oiled, and this mod will certainly be one of your favorites.